The Camino de Santiago: A First-Timer's Guide

The Camino Francés is 800 kilometers from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the French Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia. Most walkers take 30-35 days. I took 33, lost two toenails, and would do it again tomorrow. This is the guide I wish I'd had.

Choosing Your Route

The Francés is the most popular and best-supported route — albergues (pilgrim hostels) every few kilometers, yellow arrows painted on every wall, a steady stream of company. If it is your first Camino, walk the Francés. Other routes (Portugués, Primitivo, del Norte) are quieter and harder, better saved for a second trip.

What to Pack

The Rule of Thirds

Lay out everything you want to bring on your bed. Then put a third of it back. Your pack should weigh no more than 10% of your body weight, ideally under 8 kg. Every gram matters by day ten.

The Essentials

# Camino Packing List (carry-on only)

Backpack (35-40L):              1.2 kg
Sleeping bag liner (silk):      0.2 kg
2x merino shirts:               0.4 kg
1x hiking pants + 1x shorts:    0.7 kg
2x socks + 2x underwear:        0.3 kg
Light rain jacket:              0.3 kg
Fleece:                         0.4 kg
Sandals (for evenings):         0.6 kg
Toiletries + first aid:         0.5 kg
Phone, charger, power bank:     0.4 kg
Pilgrim credential + passport:  0.1 kg
                                ─────
Total packed:                   ~5.1 kg

Boots or trail runners? Trail runners. Lighter, dry faster, and your feet will thank you by week two.

Where You Sleep

Albergues cost €5-15 a night for a bunk in a dorm. Municipal albergues are cheapest but fill by noon; private albergues (privados) cost a bit more and take reservations. Bring a silk liner — most don't provide sheets, and a few don't provide blankets.

Don't pre-book every night. The Camino's rhythm is unpredictable — you may walk 40 km one day and 12 the next. Booking ahead kills that freedom.

What It Costs

A realistic Camino Francés budget for one person:

# 33-Day Camino Francés Budget (EUR)

Albergues (x33 @ €10 avg):       €330
Food (menu del día + supermarket): €420
Coffee + beer:                    €120
Laundry + pharmacy:                €45
Train to start + bus home:        €110
                                  ─────
Total:                           €1,025 (~$1,100)

What Nobody Tells You

Day 3 Is the Worst

Your body rebels around day three. Everything hurts. Keep walking — by day seven you will feel stronger than you did before you started.

You Will Walk Alone in a Crowd

The Camino is social, but you will spend hours alone with your thoughts. Bring podcasts. Bring silence. Both help.

The Last 100 km Get Crowded

Many walkers start in Sarria (the closest point that still qualifies for the compostela). The trail fills. If you walked from St-Jean, this can feel jarring. Be patient. Everyone's Camino is valid.

The Compostela

To receive the official certificate in Santiago, you must walk at least the last 100 km and collect two stamps per day in your credential. Get your final stamp at the Pilgrim's Office, queue early, and try not to cry when they read your name aloud. I failed at the last part.

Walking the Camino is not a vacation. It is a slow, ordinary, extraordinary act of putting one foot in front of the other. Pack light. Walk your own pace. The cathedral will be there when you arrive.